From Behind the Veil

From traditional veil to the fashionable scarf the dupatta has come a long way. The sheer magic of this attractive accessory gives that perfect finishing touch to Indian dresses and western styles.

The orhni or odhani literally means a covering. A diaphanous veil, it is used as a covering for the brest, back, shoulders and head. The orhni is simply a length of cloth-printed, embroidered or plain, measuring two and a half to three down the back or wrapped around the shoulder. There are various modes of wearing the unsown orhni which is now more popularly known as the dupatta. When not draped over the head in the traditional style, it is usually worn with the middle portion of the dupatta resting on the chest like a garland with both ends thrown over each respective shoulder. There are various modes of wearing the unsewn orhni which is now more popularly known as the dupatta. When not draped over the head in the traditional style, it is usually worn with the middle portion of the dupatta resting on the chest like a garland with both ends thrown over each respective shoulders. When not draped over the head in the traditional style, it is usually worn with the middle portion of the dupatta resting on the chest like a ragland with both ends thrown over each respective shoulder. When the dupatta resting is worn along with the salwar-kameez it is casually allowed to flow down the front and back, pinned in neat folds over just one shoulder, sometimes the two inner ends are knotted together over the other shoulder to form a cowl-like pattern, otherwise it generally drapes down the front and back. Both ends are also allowed to hang down the front, covering both breasts or one end circles the neck and is thrown back over the same shoulder.

These variations in styles are attempted only with the salwar-kameez. When worn with the ghagra choli, one end of the orhni finds a tucking hold at the waistband of the ghagra (long-skirt). It circuls round and ends in the front in graceful folds. The end is taken over the breast to flow down the shoulder or taken over the head to rest across the other shoulder. The Rajasthani women place the center of the dupatta on their head and the two outward flowing ends are brought in under the arm and tucked into the neck (blouse). This dupatta worn over a low skirt is called the half sari in the south of India, and is known as the chaddar in Assam. The orhni with its increased length,coveraging now he head, shoulders, brests, and a large portion o the ghagra, reducing it to the petty position of an unglamorous petticoat. The complete invasion of the lower garment by the upper garment was effectively undermined by the sheer texture of the orhni whose super fine quality, be it cotton, silk or chiffon, gave tantalizing glimpses of the garment worn under it adding to its allure and beauty. But it is said that the orhni slowly developed in length to envelop the entire petticoat and slowly in the course then the girl child floats around in only a ghaghra and choli.

It's not really clear when our ancestors grew aware of their own modesty. Archaeological evidences of Mohenjadaro and Harappan civilization show no signs of the upper garment. The Vedic Indian, though seems to have worn three garments-an under-garment (nivil), a garment (vasas), and an overgarment (adhivasa) which was presumably a mantle-the dupatta or chaddar of modern times. The upper part of the body of both men and women was covered by the adivasa-a long and ample scarf of light texture.

As a fashion garment it is an attractive accessory that looks graceful and breaks the monotony of the dress. A plain silken or cotton salwar kameez ensemble can look simple an elegant when worn with a heavily embroidered or sequined dupatta decorated with a beautiful border. Just a change of dupatta or the manner in which it is drape adds new dimensions to the outfit.

Round the neck, it is worn with jeans, sometimes improvising as a sarong or as a turban or a sash the dupatta lends itself to imaginative dressing.

Various known as the dupatta, orhni, chaddar-this headscarf or shoulder-scarf is also called the chunari in Gujarat. Chunari is the term used for the famous tie and dye work of Gujarat and Rajasthan.

Rajasthani dupattas with tie and dye strips in colourful contrast are known as laharia. Laharia means one that ripples in the wind. This refers not just to the dupatta that flutters but also the bold stripes on it that are formed like ripples.

In Himachal it is used as a headscarf knotted at the back of the head and is called dhathu.

Shopping centers in Delhi and Bombay have shops that specialize in the selling of the varies ranges of the dupatta. The latest in the market are the crinkled tissues, gold block-prints known as khadi-work in cottons, tinseled work on chiffons an heavy silken brocades and dupattas in tanchoi, organzas and tissues.

Simple chiffons and printed cottons are priced at a reasonable Rs.60/- to Rs.80/- moving upwards, depending on the embroidery or other work done on it. The broacade and bridal dupattas sell for Rs.500/- and above.

The Central Cottage Industries Corporation of India Ltd., which has outlets in all leading cities in India, stock dupattas from the different states of India.

The Tangails, Kanthas and Baluchars from Bengal; The laharia and bandhini tie and dye from Gujarat and Rajasthan in cotton and silks ; Benares cut-work with zari and embroidered tili (sequined) work from U.P.;Tussar silk with ikat border from Orissa Chanderi and Maheshwari from M.P. and Mangalagiri superfine cotton with zari border from Andhra Pradesh - are best!